Fourth and Final stop in Nuku Hiva: Taiohae.

We chose to stop here last as this is the best place to re-provision.   We still have a bilge full USA cosco canned food but some fresh French cheese and salami goes a long way.     Our next stop will be the Tuamotus Archipelago where fruit and fuel is difficult to get.   We are fully stocked on fruits from Daniels bay and now our fuel tanks are full.   Just few more preparations and we will head off.  

On the way into this bay I had a huge marlin on my 40kg fishing line.  It promptly spooled all my line off then ripped the rod out of its holder (which I tie on for occasions just like this).   The line snapped of course but I could see the monster jumping and spinning like you see on TV.   It was still a great experience.   I now have  a second reel with 150kg line attached!  

The view from the plateau which I missed seeing in person.   Nikki took these pics from horse back on a day tour of the island by horse.   

The anchorage.   We got hit by a squall which lasted around 2 hours while we were on shore.   We have only seen rain for no longer than 10 minutes since we left the USA.    We came back to the boat which had dragged about 50 meters.   I moved it today as our new position was too close to other boats.   Our 55lbs delta anchor does not like mud bottoms. 

We visited the small museum owned by veteran cruiser Rose.  She cruised here in the early 70s and her and her late husband purchased a lot of land here and practically opened the Marquesas to conventional tourism by opening a hotel.  

Polynesian voyaging canoes.   They were cruising the oceans on 80 foot catamarans that would do 14 knots when Europeans were sailing on boats with all the sleekness of a giant bathtub.  Multihulls a new development?  I don't think so.   The one on top is a war canoe.  They would paddle it from one bay to the next to raid an opposing clan using their paddles as weapons.   Check out the spikes on the end of the paddle below. 

Nikki had a lot of fun trotting and cantering with Lisa.   Nikkis horse was a little feisty at first, but being a rodeo champion she was able to show him who was boss.

Third stop in Nuku Hiva: Daniels bay.

This is another breathtaking anchorage with steep cliffs all around and a sandy beach for going ashore with the tender.  We took a walk to the 3rd highest waterfall in the world.   The walk was serine and the feeling of awe when we approached the fall through overhanging cliffs has unfortunately been missed in our photos.  It has to be seen in person to be understood.   Most of the walk followed the remnants of an ancient roadway.  Stone walls and pae pae (stone house & temple foundations) were seen almost everywhere for the 1.5 hour walk to the falls. 

The fall is huge but this is the only place where you can see its origin from the plateau.  

 The main waterfall disappears into another inaccessible crevasse before re-emerging over a smaller fall into a lovely waterhole full of crayfish in which we had a swim.

We were warned of falling rocks from the 300m high overhanging cliffs. Especially when it had been raining (which it had).   A bag of helmets is provided which we laughed off.   On the way back I found this head sized rock 0.5 of a meter from the path which was not there on the way in.  In not sure how much help a helmet would have been if this hit you on the head!

Second stop in Nuku Hiva: Anaho bay.

We sailed past some spectacular mountains and cliffs on the 4 hour sail to Anaho bay from Controllers bay. Anaho bay had a smooth anchorage with little swell and some amazing views from the mountain ridge.   The water was clear and we done some nice snorkeling.   The micro village here can only be accessed by boat or a 2 hour hike over a mountain ridge making it a special place.

On the way to Anaho bay from Controllers bay.  

The rock formations in these islands are unique.

Just like what you imagined a tropical island paradise to look like right?

Low tide at Anaho.

Rock or crab?

Looks like someone ate one of my claws.  No biggy it will grow back.

Nikki's prized cotton ball.  

These are some views you get of Anaho bay when you go for a walk to the shops.  Walk to shop = 2 hours one way to Hatiheu.

Ronnie & Chris from SV Ladybug and I on the ridge.

The isthmuth.

The Tikis in Hatiheu are some of the best around.   Look closely and you can see the shamen holding and infant which is about to be put to death and eaten.   Apparently the first born from each family were ritually killed and eaten.

Bowl of infant heads.

Restored Marquesan pae pae.  The stones are original and the building is a replica.

Back to Anaho bay.   We met a local character named Kareem who told us many stories about his exploits from Polynesian voyaging canoes to nano particle reactors.  Above is his house on his own private beach made from floatsome and used building materials.   We had dinner with him and his family at the other end of the bay.  When you order dinner here for tomorrow, you will see them leave on their boat to catch the fish fresh.  You hear the bleating of the goats being chased though the bush and see them walking the tidal flats for octopus.   No going to the supermarket!

Karen, Chris, Ronnie, Mike, Dennis, Nikki, Kareem before dinner.

 

This house was lifted of its foundations when it was hit by the tsunami that devastated Thailand and Sri Lanka in 2004.   The Marquesas were hit but I do not believe anyone was killed.  In some areas they reported a huge reduction in tide many meters below normal levels which then surged back few meters above normal hightide levels.   This happened around 3 times in 20 minute cycles, which was enough for locals to catch on and grab all the lobsters off the rocks on the low water between surges.  Risky business but we were told the lobster catch was good.

Jam session at Anaho.

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NUKU HIVA ISLAND

Our plan was to circumnavigate the island stopping last at Taiohae bay which is the biggest town in the Marquesas.  First stop: Controllers Bay.   This is where I landed the Yellowfin Tuna as we arrived.    This bay has a small village with friendly people.    We made friends with a local family and had dinner with them.   They stocked us up with fruit.    

Simon with one of his sons and I.

The waterfall was a long walk and other cruisers were impressed that we even found it because apparently it's a bit hard to find.   We were not sure if we knew where we were going but I suggested that no matter where you are on this island, you will always find a waterfall eventually if you keep walking up the valleys.   It may not be the one you are looking for though!

We learned a song in Marquesan and I got to play the jungle drum.

We went for a walk to the next bay to find a beautiful stream and bay.

I'm decorated in my Marquesan bone carved ear ring and necklace of seeds which I received as a gift from our friend Simon.

The locals put on a show for an arriving cruise ship.  Simons kids were part of the dance team.

Nikki and Yvonne showing off their intricate seed necklaces given to them by Simon.