27/6/12 - 30/6/12 Moorea

Farewell Tahiti - It was time to leave the hustle and bustle of the capital and explore the smaller Society Islands. A picture of Tahiti from its neighbouring island, Moorea, 8 Nm away. 

We have a pleasant light wind sail to Moorea. Opunohu Bay – the most photographed bay in the world. 

A stroll through the valley and up to Belvedere lookout. We stop off on the way to pick some wild passionfruit. 

We hire bikes for the day for a leisurely cycle along the coast.  Lisa from Amnesia II joins us.  This white sand beach was a perfect place to enjoy a picnic lunch.

30/6/12- 4/7/12

Slow overnight sail, 83Nm to Huahine island. After our recent bike ride at Moorea, we decide to go further, be more adventurous and cycle the entire island, 68km round trip. It was a fun day stopping off to appreciate the local way of life.

Impressive Maraes.

Traditional fish trap.

Copra production - Throughout French Polynesia, production of coconut oil is very common practice and one of its major exports. It is heavily subsidised by the French government and subsequently it is a very lucrative business. Here is a picture of the coconut drying.

Huahine island, is like Tahiti in that it is comprised of two islands, Huahine Nui and Iti. The islands are connected by man made bridge rather than a natural isthmus. 

We celebrated our successful bike ride with happy hour cocktails - mai tais for $4.50, large beer for $2.50. Very cheap for French Polynesia! Afterwards we went out for a tasty dinner at Albert and Annette's Roulette - food truck. These food trucks serve excellent food and are very common throughout the Society islands, being frequented by both tourists and locals. We enjoy a tasty local specialty, poisson cru - raw tuna with coconut milk. It is believed that beer and coconut milk together are bad for you and so we had Chinese style instead - a vinegar based dressing. 

Here's a pic of my homemade poisson cru - unfortunately the tuna had to be bought. We are currently in a fishing drought! After two more happy hours and dinners, we bid our farewells!

5/7/12-10/7/12

Slow downwind 23 Nm sail to Raiatea. This island was traditionally the most important island of French Polynesia, both for trade as well as religion. Here is a picture of the largest Marae site.

We took the dingy for a ride up the river in Baie Faaroa.   This is the only river in French Polynesia which is navigable by dingy for more than a few hundred meters.  We explored it to the first set of rapids which was around a 2nm trip.

We also visited a couple of small Motus (small islands).

Sunken catamaran....thankfully not ours! No treasures unfortunately!

We enjoy pleasant protected sailing around the island as we sail in the lagoon behind the fringing reef. For the first time, we successfully manage to Goosewing, with code zero and head sail, travelling 4-5 knots in 5 knots apparent wind.

We wharf up to Uturoa town quay. The last time our boat was touching land was when we docked in America. It's a great time to relax and not stress about the anchor/boat. We celebrate with the other yachties who are equally pleased to be attached to land with one too many drinks!   I think we may have acquired stowaways by docking though.   We have since spotted a cockroach on the boat. Will Australian customs burn our boat before allowing us to import due to infestation?

10/7/12- 11/7/12

The weather deteriorates and so we move to seek shelter. We sail to Tahaa, a small island which shares the same fringing reef as Raiatea and is only 2Nm away from its closest point. We were very much looking forward to exploring this island, famous for its vanilla plantations and reportedly the best snorkeling in the whole of French Polynesia.

Sheltered anchorages are few and deep, 20m if you're lucky. For the first time we use all our 60m chain plus the rest in rope.

Unfortunately our activities are hampered by bad weather and we are trapped on the boat.

12/7/12

The plan - a fast but relaxed sail to Bora Bora in 20-25 knots downwind.

What actually happened - Initially 20-25 knots downwind and we are making good progress with the full main. Winds slowly increases to 30 knots, the boat becomes more difficult to handle, a squall is approaching and visibility is falling. Gale! Thankfully we have already taken down our main and have only a small head out when the winds came through. Despite the small head sail we are still being overpowered by the winds and we further reduce our head sail.  Before the squall we were recording wind speeds averaging 30K from the ESE when the squall hit the wind increased to over 40k but backed to the NE when meant we were no longer going down wind but on a reach.  All is good, we made a safe passage and it was a bit of fun.

With the advent of modern weather forecasting, generally you have weather on your side. The weather files revealed a front but not with much wind associated. Fronts are predictably associated with strong winds and these winds are often underestimated on the weather charts. We knew we were going out in less than ideal conditions but we had a timeline by which we needed to be in Bora Bora.

13/7/12 - 16/7/12

Bora Bora - a honeymooners paradise. One of the most expensive places in the world to take a holiday...........if only it would stop raining and blowing.

We find secure anchorage in 12m of water, sand bottom, on the southeastern tip of Motu Toopua. 4:1 scope with a Delta 55lb anchor is holding us well in frequent gusts of 40-55 knots. It is uncomfortable sleeping as the boat tacks constantly back and forth into the wind.

We are still trapped on the boat by bad weather. It starts to improve slowly and we can once again venture away from the boat.

14/7/12 Bastille day - This is a public holiday to celebrate French and Polynesian culture. We move to Vaitape, the main town on Bora Bora, to partake in the festivities. We enjoyed an evening dance show, with lots of bum wiggling and impressive drumming.